A few important tips:
- Pick up water with your brush before getting paint with it.
- Have a palette handy as you'll want to roll your brush on it to get it into a point; this will let you put pant where you want it a lot easier.
|Step 1: Primer with gray. This can be Mechanicus Standard Grey if you want, but I used|
a Rustoleum spray.
|Step 2: Paint the base with Squig Orange, then add a mixture of Martian Ironearth and |
Martian Ironcrust. Allow to cure fully.
|Step 3: Wash liberally with Vallejo's Dark Rust. If you're sticking with Citadel colors, use|
Reikland Fleshshade instead. Allow to dry. Drybrush with Fire Dragon Bright, Squig
Orange,or Ryza Rust if you like.
|Step 4: Paint the shoulder pads, weapon casings, knee pads, and helmet lenses with|
|Step 5: Paint the backpack exhausts, weapons, krak grenades, and blades with |
|Step 6: Paint anything that's leather (like straps and weapon holsters) with Dryad Bark.|
|Step 8: Paint any helmet faceplats with Administratum Grey.|
|Step 9: Paint the grenade pins, buckles, and backpack top strip things (if they exist) with|
|Step 10: Paint any frag grenades with Dark Reaper. Here's a close up of the area.|
|Step 11: Wash the entire model carefully with Nuln Oil, making sure to clean up any|
pooling. Make sure any highly texture surfaces like the undersuit ribbing get a slightly extra
coat of the wash.
|Step 12: Paint all the stud bits with Skullcrusher Brass. You'll have to be pretty careful|
since most of them are in areas that aren't easily touched up.
|Step 13: Very carefully paint all the rivets and bolts with Runefang Steel. This can take|
awhile, as I found out with Mk III armor. It's worth it for the bright contrast against the dark
grey and blacks.
|Step 14: Dust the model with Secret Weapon Pigments' Rust Orange. I chose to aim for the|
legs and areas immediately around them.
|Step 15: Paint the rim of the base with Abaddon Black. Or your choice of color really.|
|Step 16: Seal the model in with a matte sealer. I use the Testors brand personally.|